Training methods for elite youth climbers: a composite vignette of coaches’ awareness, knowledge and practices

Bird, E. L., Pocock, C. and Day, M. C. (2026) Training methods for elite youth climbers: a composite vignette of coaches’ awareness, knowledge and practices. International Journal of Sports Science & Coaching. pp. 1-10. ISSN 2048-397X

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Abstract

With the exponential growth of indoor climbing competitions, and recent Olympic status, there is an increased pressure on elite youth climbers, training methods, and balancing the dangers of epiphyseal fracture of the phalanges. However, little is known of coach awareness, knowledge, and practices of elite youth climbing training methods. The aim of the study was to explore coaches’ current views on current awareness, knowledge, and practice within Elite Youth
Climbers training methods. Ten elite climbing coaches with 15±12 years climbing coaching experience participated in semi-structured interviews, lasting 67±20 min, exploring their awareness, knowledge, and practices of youth training with elite climbers. Interviews were analysed using a reflexive thematic approach. Three composite vignettes were cre�ated from ten initial lower order themes to provide an insightful and rich account of coaching elite youth climbers. Coaches were aware of epiphyseal fracture risks in youth climbers and had different perspectives on appropriate training methods relative to training age. Coaches lacking in academic knowledge or less experienced working with elite youth climbers were unlikely to use training practices such as system boards, campus boards and finger boards compared to coaches with greater academic knowledge or more experience in the field. All coaches identified a need for updated training guidance in context of increased climbing standards for youth climbers and advances in coach education.

Publication Type: Articles
Additional Information: © The Author(s) 2026
Uncontrolled Keywords: epiphyseal fracture, grip, injury risk, national governing body, phalanges
Subjects: G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV201 Physical education and training
G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV557 Sports
G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV557 Sports > GV711 Coaching
Divisions: Academic Areas > Institute of Sport
Academic Areas > Institute of Sport > Area > Sports Coaching
Academic Areas > Institute of Sport > Research Theme > Enhancing Sport Performance
Research Entities > Centre for Health and Allied Sport and Exercise Science Research (CHASER)
Depositing User: Ellis Bird
Date Deposited: 08 Sep 2026 13:54
Last Modified: 08 Sep 2026 13:54
URI: https://eprints.chi.ac.uk/id/eprint/8743

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